Conquering Te Waipounamu!

The swirling cold wet wind cools our fingers as we set off from Bluff. Freight trucks add to the swirl of wind as we ease our legs into the kilometres ahead. 17km of State Highway One is an experience and luckily our only. The traffic is considerate, and the kids learn a quick respect to staying concentrated on our busy New Zealand roads.

Turning off towards Fortrose we settle into a tail wind with the more relaxed feel of a country road towards. Snow still present on the ground from the latest southerly storm as we pitch our tents inside an old glass house. The lignite cafe / campsite was an interesting spot, with plenty to explore in its overgrown gardens and old coal mining artefacts. The old coal pit now filled with water and well planted exotics is a beautiful place.

Our first morning learning how to pack all our camping gear into our biking frames takes a while, but it’s a procedure that will soon become a common occurrence.

We awake to a frosty morning; thankful the glass house protected the tents from an icy start. Fingers again cold, but only till the sun’s rays penetrate through our thick layers of clothing. Charlie spins his 20” wheeled bike towards the sun, past the morning milking cows walking back from just having their utters relived. Past the steaming pastures and towards the shores of the Mataura river where white baiters are getting their nets ready for the coming season.

The roads are quiet and allow for a cruisy pace of life. Rolling into Fortrose we meet Katie and Darren, with their 4 children. It seems the 2 degrees of separation is alive and well in NZ. And this is to become a common theme throughout the South island thanks to the effects of Covid. Kids enjoy a giant game of tag, while we yarn about friends and the privilege of being able to carry on as usual in our little country of Aotearoa.

After a long second day on the saddle with plenty of rolling hills we turn off towards Slope point. Mutiny seeps in, with the sight of a larger than expected hill. "We're not going up there?". The kids have peddled well and a sizeable hill late in the day after 45km calls for a campsite. We turn off down a side road to Slope point campsite, enjoying the low tide sandy flats to go and explore. The kids still have plenty of energy once off the bike. "Maybe we should have peddled that hill"?

Tents soaking with dew we decamp faster now that we've had practice and find that big hill to warm the bodies on. Its a slog, and takes a bit of pushing and helping each other to roll up to the top next to yet another patch of snow. A retired farmer idles over on his heated quad. "Werrre ya Frrrom". The Southland accent is alive and well. He leaves with a parting gift of chocolate bikkies and lollies for the kids. We de-rig all excess gear and roll down the other side to Slope Point. NZ's southern most point. A tiny lighthouse and crashing surf on the cliffs below keep everyone entertained. A scenic spot and the start of the next weeks journey along the Caitlins coast line.

We roll into Curio bay ready for a few pit days thanks to the gale winds and heavy rain forecast. Flooding and road closures keep us in Curio bay for 3 days. Not a bad place to swim and explore between squalls of rain. Mahe braves the rough weather to collect paua, coming back absolutely soaked thanks to a unwanted swim in the pools, but hands full of a feed for dinner. That night our tent is more a waterbed than a waterproof tent!

We catch up with Harriet the next day. She had just cycled from Kaka Point in torrential flooding, carrying her bike where cars could not ford. We are inspired by the adventure, however happy we stayed put. The next day is for gale winds (mainly tail for us). So we pack up sodden tents, and make a break in the small weather window.

We start slogging up the Chaselands highway, we can hear the winds building. Then Jazz is caught by a bluster of wind, she’s slides off down a bank. Bush lawyer catching her before she can get to the unfavourable bottom. Luckily just ripped clothing and no scars. Nothing a quick sugar fix can't fix. Then again the wind rips up from behind, it blows Charlie up the hill at 25kph, he's having to break up the hill to slow down. Southland is always full of weather surprises. But at least the snow has gone.

Last hill of the day we battle the wind over Florence hill into Papatowai. Its relentless and has us walking the last 200m in the ditch pushing our bikes to escape the wind. Rolling down the hill in the sheltered campsite is a reprieve from the weather. We set up camp tucked into the bushes to hide from yet another approaching storm.

A slightly busier road than we hoped for, it rolls us into Owaka and a stop at our first 4 square. Kids take the opportunity to be rewarded with ice creams and chips. The staple food for fuelling our bodies. We carry on out to Pounawea campsite and enjoy a beautiful spot with tui's and bellbirds. Our one clear break in the weather to dry gear out.

The forecast again mentions hail and gale force winds. We set off early to beat the weather, heading for Kaka Point, we can see a big angry coming from behind. Its stalks us with its angry eyes blowing puffs of cold air up the back of our tops. 12km out it hits. Hail bounces off our helmets. Charlie quotes 10 times over that. “this is the worst day of my life”. Stef, Jazz and Mahe take off, the only shelter is a house at Kaka Point.

Charlie and I ride, hail bouncing off us. Charlie's screaming noise fades out by the pelting of the helmet.

Finally Kaka Point comes into view and its straight for the garage to escape the elements. Glad that we don’t have to set up our soggy tent for the night.

This was our tester or taster for what cycling with kids would be like. And we hadn’t put them off.

We head back to Te Anau to finish off the last term of school and prepare for another 4000km of riding.

The weeks leading up to peddle day were frantic, emptying the house, signing tendency agreements, finalising business arrangements. Bike modifications, christmas presents, christmas parties, correspondence school organising. It all seemed a bit much, however the constant thought of one whole year off was the light at the end of the tunnel.

Kaka Point we take a few days to unwind and relax. Going over gear, and routes. We push off, this is it, homeless or nomadic life till we reach Picton. The Southland weather hasn’t left yet. Our rain gear might be warn out before Christmas at this rate. We ease through the dairy farms into Balclutha. Stock up on the last of our food and follow up the Northern side of the Clutha River. The traffic is relaxing the further we venture from Balclutha. Farmers strolling down the road in their tractors. Sheep close to yards ready for the wool cut. Our 1st night out is a on the side of meandering Clutha, slightly fuller thanks to the amount of rain of late. The 2nd day out is a beauty, for the first time the sunscreen bottle is pulled out and goes down just as fast our water supply.

Tuapeka Ferry is a scenic spot, we set up camp and await a ride, swimming exploring the old mining sites, and eating to lessen our weight. However the Tuapeka ferry is not operating? We pull out the maps and come up with plan B. Quiet roads and big hills we slog over the Tuapeka hills to the Clutha gold trail just out of Beaumont. The gravel roads wet, and what we ate to reduce weight is made back up in mud caked to our bikes.

The Clutha Gold trail is bliss, from Beaumont to Lake Tekapo we can stay on trails. Stef and I can tune out of concentrating of traffic and enjoy the biking.

We peddle through Beaumont late in the evening and find a spot by the Clutha to put up tent. Our gear is a little soggy and we await a fine weather period where we can dry out our gear.

Gold history, meandering cycle trail up the Clutha and no one around. The days before Christmas and the trail is empty. It's like we’ve missed a lock down. The kids enjoy a whole trail to themselves cutting corners picnicking in the middle of the path. Eventually we bump into a small group of people at Millers Flat. The thought of an ice cream is quickly on the back burner thanks to Christmas Eve shut down.

The Road is humming with people commuting for Christmas, the noise is constant and we’re glad that there’s an alternative cycle route.

We find a nice spot at Pinders Pond and set up camp beside a beautiful lake. We enjoy a dry night to swim and dry out our gear. Kids enjoy watching the going’s on around the camp. A group of bogans rip around on go karts and keg karts. Donuts, noise and dust. We’re back in civilisation. Christmas eve is a great camp and we enjoy a cruisy morning to open our presents which are all of quarter of a pannier bag. A tea spoon compared to what the kids in the camp next to us receive. Our kids stand steering at two kids beside us that have enough presents to fill a horse trailer.

Enough of the bogan life, we push off towards Roxburgh. Hoping to shout the kids a Christmas dinner. However nothing is open. So we spend 15 minutes at the automated Roxburgh toilets. And eat the last of our chocolate.

Nothing like back country meals to celebrate Christmas dinner followed by 2 minute noodles. Yep our food stock is low and the kids 1st ever noodle Christmas dinner goes down a treat.

Bellies full of noodles we peddle past the overcrowded rabbit farms and on to the Roxburgh Gorge Trail. The track is amazing winding alongside the Clutha through the hot summer sun.

At the tracks end we encounter Shingle creek hut. What a spot to enjoy Boxing day. We crank the fire and enjoy drying out gear and staying warm as the snow falls on the hills around us.

That night Stef awakes to a possum helping itself to our food.

A quick knock on the head and the possum is asleep for the rest of the night.

Charlie runs out with the first rays of light to go pee and is stopped dead in his tracks steering at a sleeping possum on the door step. “How did that get there”?

Shortly after Dave arrives in the Beaumont Jet to run us up the river to the rest of the trail. What a treat Dave’s knowledge of the area is astounding. The kids have caught gold fever with tales of nuggets and miners striking it rich along the Clutha Banks.

Food running low, we get a call from Nic and Di, Adrian's brother and sister in law, they’re keen to catch up and we declare we are out of food. We roll into Alexander catching up with the cousins Isla and Lewis. Nic and Di bring out a spread of good food and we’re happy to fill up on proper food and have a break from our freeze dried meals.

Alexander is hustling with action and the campground is a place we are keen to get out of fast. We have a pit day to stock up and fix bikes. We enjoy the rail trail out into the dry lands of Central Otago. It’s hot and we soon go through our water trying to stay cool.

A few texts from friends and St Bathans for New Years has us pumping the peddles. Head winds and hills slowly behind us we roll down into St Bathans. The lake is a welcome site for a cold scrub.

A great 3 days hanging out with friends of Te Anau with Fiordland weather. Everyone’s over the rain and leaves us to hunker down in our tent away from the rain.

Flooding and road closures have us questioning our intended route up the Manuherikia valley. We’ve heard there are over 20 river crossings. The mud is sticky and we ease into the climb towards Omarama saddle. A group of quads come down the valley, suggesting the rivers are high but dropping. We take a break at the old homestead. The weather looks favourable.

The first river crossing means a trip for each kid and each bike and each trailer. From our 14 rivers crossings I work out that Stef and I clock up over 120 trips through the river. My feet are numb and I’m certainly over our 8km of progress for a whole days work. The Boundary hut with a dry pair of socks is bliss.

That night we bump into Steven who stops by in his 4wd drive to see what we are up to. Kids love a free ride through the river without getting their feet wet.

We set off further up the Manuherikia valley towards Omarama pass. The river splits and becomes smaller. Now the kids can at least cross the river without help. The weather turns just as we reach the hut. We decide to have a pit afternoon at Top Hut to sit out the rain. While the kids enjoy some card games I take the opportunity to carry a load up the pass and drop it off to ease the weight for the next day.

The pass is steep but we try not to scare the kids. We talk about the pass being the hardest they will do and if they can do this everything will be easier. The clouds part to reveal a blue bird day towards the pass. The kids are pumped and we roll around the corner to see a track leading into the early morning fog hiding on the pass. Its demoralising and the kids look on a little worried. But they chip in., taking it in turns to carry bags and walk, or push each other on their bikes. Three hours later we emerge on the pass. Yep 2km in three hours. It's slow and we work out we’ve done the pass 3 times each with the amount of trips needed to haul our gear to the top. We enjoy the views on top and spend a good amount of time looking down into the Mackenzie country far below.

We also receive cell phone reception the first for over a week. So a great time to let our followers know we are still riding north.

The ride off the pass is fast and rough. And we have to take care with our heavy loads. Stef's buggy rolls a few times sending the pantry food rolling down the hill. As the warm clear weather dries up after the flooding, we see a surge in four wheelers heading into the hills to make the most of it. The track becomes busy. We have to explain every time. “ Yes the kids have rode their bikes here”. As we get closer to Omarama the road turns from farm track to nice quite sealed road with a slight downhill slope and tail wind. The pace is on to beat the local 4 square from closing. We arrive for enough time to stock up on a pie, ice cream and pack of chips each. The kids struggle to decide what to eat.

A pit day in Omarama organising food and fixing up bikes. The kids enjoy playing around the campground with other kids. Mahe makes a friend with Max, and heads out on a boat for the day to go fishing. Max even jumps on his bike to join us the next day and rides the A2O through to the woolshed.

What a night, Brett and Ness turn up, then Lucy, it’s a buzzing campsite with plenty of nice food, beverages and some great social time with good friends.

The next day we wipe the cold dew from our tents, load Lucy’s car and head off to Ohau a little lighter. Another blue bird day and after the first climb we are rewarded with scenic views out over Lake Ohau.

We roll down into Ohau Lodge for a snack, then down the road to the freedom camp which isn’t a freedom camp due to the latest Ohau fires. The wind blows from different directions every 5min. We have a hard time cooking in the wind and keeping the tents tied down. We huddle behind a tree to eat our dinner wishing we had stayed at Ohau Lodge!

A relaxed day cycling round the shores of Lake Ohau and along the canals brings us into Twizel. After sweet talking a few fishermen we are handed a rainbow trout to cook up. Lucy says her good byes and we push off to find the camp ground in Twizel, we end up bumping into old friends Mark and Claire.

Mark offers us a nice little 2 bedroom house to stay and we enjoy the time in Twizel catching up.

After a bit of watching the weather we decide Mt Cook is a must. Mark and I cycle up to the village and Stef takes Marks truck up with the kids and gear. The ride to Mt Cook was fast, no gear and no kid.

It is three days till the predicted storm is meant to hit. This gives us two days to get up to Muller hut and one and half days to bike to Tekapo. We go light to Muller leaving all our gear inside our tents at the Mt Cook campsite. The kids are fit now, and make short work of the climb up to Sealy tarns for a swim. Before carrying on up to Muller for a snow fight in the remaining pockets of snow around the hut.

The weather is bliss and we bivvy out on the ridge. Mt Cook and Sefton in full view, even during the night under a full moon, stars overhead, and avalanches pealing off consistently. We are awoken at 5am by the cheeky keas. One turns on the cooker and sits back laughing away as white spirits squirts out over our sleeping bags.

We spend a another blue bird day climbing Mt Oliver and delay our decent till the last moment. Down at Mt Cook Village we catch up with Tara who’s on her traverse of the Southern Alps. We enjoy a night at the campsite catching up with Tara and hearing of her adventures.

With the storm approaching, Tara is off early and we are too. Thanks to Emily we receive a free flight on the snow plane up the Tasman for a scenic flight. What a spot, the kids are in awe as we fly alongside Mt Cook. Incredible scenery - thanks to Mt Cook Ski Planes for the awesome flight.

The clouds start to build and we set off from Cook a little late, Jaz, Stef and Mahe power off towards Tekapo, Charlie and I set up a tow, but its hard going. Our goal is the Lavender Farm ice cream before it closes. We arrive with four minutes to spare. Thankful for a cold refreshing ice cream we push our tired legs a little further around Lake Pukaki to find a place to camp. The weather is turning and big clouds can been seen covering the alps. We bath in the lake scrubbing the salt from our bodies.

Again our food supply is low, But that also means our bikes are nice and light.

The canals are brutal, no shelter and head wind meets us at every corner. The kids are finally fading after a big few days climbing and peddling. 10 km out of Tekapo, we’re spent, we set up camp and eat the last of our back country. The storm hits that night and a cold blast of rain soaks us. Its hard to get out of the tent. However Stef gets word that a house swap deal has been struck and we can have a house in Tekapo. (It also has a spa pool). We roll into Tekapo drenched and thankful that we have a house. The forecast is wind heavy rain followed by snow for the next 4 days. The timing couldn’t be better. We’re ready for a rest.

The days in Tekapo are relaxing, time at the hot pools. Time fixing bikes, time for the kids to watch a few movies and blob out in the spa while the snow falls.

Legs revived, we hit the first stretch of busy road. Most of the traffic is kind, but a few up market SUV’s give us a scare. We’re thankful to be pulling off the road just past Mt Dobson ski field turn off and move towards the quiet roads again. A nice camp at Lake Opua, before heading back towards the hills.

Thanks to Blue Mountain Station we are able to enjoy riding down the Orari gorge. The kids are tough now and the steep rough hills require only a few trips up each hill with help from each other.

Then the first flat. Our progress is already slow. However we keep moving down the gorge enjoying the scenery and changing flat tyres every 30min thanks to the matagouri.

A make shift camp in the trees at the bottom of the gorge makes for a comfortable night. And the next day we roll on flat tar seal towards Geraldine. The local cycling club are out on their ride, and the kids enjoy racing the bunches as they go by. Geraldine is a quick restock and visit before we cycle on towards Mt Somers to catch up with John and Viv. The news is all about the approaching heat wave so we enjoy a pit day at Mt Somers hanging out by the pool.

Once the heat wave dies down we battle the NW wind inland towards Lake Heron. It’s a real struggle and the kids enjoy a few tows from Grandad John on his E-bike. We’re rewarded with a night in the Aerosmith wool shed, while the gale winds race by outside.

The morning brings a few hours reprieve from the wind before it sparks up again. John and Viv join us till the wind sets in. Then they decide to take advantage of the tail wind and head back. Leaving us to punch towards the Raikaia. The views are incredible. The upper Rakia opens out in front of us. We enjoy an hour break taking in the scenery. Then no sooner as we decide to set off the wind stops. Then does a full 180. Along with it the temperature drops and down valley we can see the big angry snow clouds approach. We dig in to get down valley and loose some altitude. Then the cloud rolls over us and we quickly throw up the tents nestled in the Matagouri for some shelter. No sooner are the tents up and the rain comes down. Its cold and the kids enjoy the shelter as Stef and I secure the tents and cook dinner.

We’re grateful to be out of the cold rain, but its hard to stay warm overnight as the snow swirls pass.

We awake in the morning to sunshine on the hills, and snow on the tent. Most of our cooking equipment is frozen. It’s a slow start as we put on wet cold gear. The thought of sunshine down the valley is our motivation to move.

With food running low the kids are feeling it. Every hill takes a little longer than the last. We’re down to the last back country for lunch and a few dates. When John and Viv pull up, a bag full of pies, chocolate milk and broccoli for Mahe comes out. It’s a welcome site and makes the last hill a breeze. They’d even booked us a house in Methven for the night.

What a welcome site, hot shower, washing machine, and a hot pub meal.

A pit day allows us to dry our gear and the usual bike maintenance.

The next few days are nice and relaxing, through the back roads to Glen tunnel. A stop at Springfield is a must for pies. And a night catching up with Fi and Dion. We enjoy cycling with both grandparents and light loads.

At Ashley Gorge we have a pit day to stock up and prepare for our Lees valley, Okuku saddle trip. This is another remote section. Mum and dad cycle with us over the first hill then return before the 2nd and harder hill. The local honey bee company are busy and the road becomes a dust storm with trucks racing pass at scary speeds. Eventually a slow truck comes past, with a farmer more in tune with our lifestyle. He suggests staying at the old Lees Valley School, and mentions a secret key spot. Thanks to this guy we enjoy a night in a school that’s just recently been shut down.

The kids enjoy a school day, reading material, chalk boards, school games. Its hard to leave the place, especially with the cold drizzle outside.

Eventually we set off late in the day, we try a side trip up to a DoC hut, however the track is heavily laden with Matagouri and 6ft locked gate stops us 4km before the hut. We enjoy a short walk up the valley and time off the bikes.

One of our most enjoyable campsites is in the Okuku river flats. The water warm, the evening air still and even warmer. The kids spend most of their time swimming in the rapids, collecting lots of bullies and relaxing in the sun.

Late in the evening bikes start rolling pass, competitors from the Te Waipounamu have little time as they race South. Kids are in awe that people can bike over 300km in a day.

With permission to bike through McDonald Downs Station, we avoid a big chunk of NZ busy roads around Christchurch. The farm tracks are neat, weaving in and out of gullies. The grass has really burnt off here and we encounter our first dry farm land. The little streams are a welcome site to cool down in.

After some good ups and downs, we decide its time to look for a camp. An empty farm shed provides a perfect shelter, and we sit down to eat. Kids feeling it after a big day in the saddle. Then we get phone reception with a message that 18km down the road. Nan and Stan are waiting at Hawarden. The kids pack up camp pull out their head lights and are off. Cycling in the dark adds a new dimension and the kids love. It.

We pull into the domain happy to see the campervan. Mahe and Charlie grab a bed inside, and the rest of us sleep out under the awning.

All the Grandies turn up for breakfast in Hawarden, before we take a leisurely ride with tails winds on to the Hurunui pub and then onto Culverden. There were plans to stay off the main roads to Hanmer Spings, however the kids were hanging out for the hot springs, and 33km sounded a lot better than 110km through the hills. The traffic was reasonably nice, and the kids did well to concentrate on the main road for so long. The reward was a nice house in Hanmer Springs to chill out and a day at the hot pools following.

At Hanmer Springs we took a break to head back down south for a wedding and a life celebration before heading off again into the Molesworth. The day we set off Jazz came down with a bug and was really feeling it. She dug deep and we made it through to Acheron campsite for the night.

John and Viv joined us the next day, With Jazz still feeling a little unwell and the head winds through Molesworth we had to abandon bikes in a shelter and hitch through to Molesworth station for the night. Linda the camp warden helped us out and before we knew it, we were back the next day to finish off the ride. The Molesworth was an incredible spot. Very dry and busy with kiwis ticking off their bucket list. The higher altitudes also bought the colder nights. Now our summer sleeping bags were feeling a little light.

From Molesworth station we enjoyed more hills through to Camden Downs accommodation where we stored bikes in an old farm shed, and packed our gear into packs. Farewelling John and Viv we walked up the Hodder River on route to Tapuae-o-Uenuku. Yes the next 5 days were bike free and we enjoyed walking up in to the hills for some different terrain.

One big days walk bought us to the Hodder Huts, with goats crossing rivers and a light dusting of new snow. We rested and recovered the following day to give ourselves the best chance of summiting Tapuae-o-Uenuku (Tappy).

An early morning start under headlight came around early enough and the kids were focused. We had gone through the time frames and the kids were determined to summit before our 2pm turn around time. The terrain got steeper as the sun come out in force to warm the cold beginnings.

We meet up with Yelona, Gavin and Joe. Joe was like a young Sir Ed so the kids strided it out following him up the hill. This quickened our pace and the elevation was quickly gained to the last technical bits near the top that required some slow careful travel. Top elevation being 2885m.

The top was amazing, views out over the Kaikoura coast and the Clarence River with Mt Cook to the South. We enjoyed a good hour just hanging out on the top, not wanting to go down. The kids had made it look like a breeze and we were scared they might burn out on the way down. However they were prepared.

Mahe and Jazz said “we’re only half way guys”. The scree running down turned into fun, and after a 14 hour day we were back at the hut enjoying hot chocolate and back country meals.

The following day we headed on back down the Hodder river. We took the walk easy and didn’t push it, but nearer the end the kids took off. They raced the parents back to Camden Downs, like an adventure race. All helping to share packs load bikes, open gates while they stay well ahead of Stef and myself.

By the time we got back to Camden Downs they were already playing hide n seek with the farmers kids. Stef and I were looking forward to a nice relaxing night. But the kids were still out well after dark.

Stef and I unpacked and repacked gear for the bike trip to Blenheim.

We set off from Camden Downs, not planning on going too far. We were keen to rest the kids after there Tappy trip. However 40km later we were still biking along. Km’s and time flew by cruising through the vine yards in the lower Awatere valley. Just on dusk we found an old disused campsite and sheltered under the trees while the rain set in.

The thought of civilisation, supermarkets, new food had us up early and with light loads we climbed up over Taylors pass and enjoyed rolling down into Blenheim.

Blenheim was a hustle of busyness, and we couldn’t wait to leave. We’d become accustom to the quiet life and roads, and the 1km on State highway one to the campsite was enough. We showered up reloaded and peddled out to Cable bay for some rest by the sea.

Poor kids they had seen the sign, Picton 28km. If we took SH1, Picton was oh so close. But we again took the scenic quiet way round Port Underwood. For the first time since leaving Kaka Point we encountered the Ocean. We enjoyed swimming in the salt water every day and playing in the sand. Each night we enjoyed the noise of breaking waves and salty air.

The last climb out of Underwood took us 2 hours to climb and 9min to descend.

Rolling into Picton, Charlie yelled out that he had done 1953km. He needed 47 more kms to crack the 2000km mark for the South island. We took a few detours went past the supermarket and let the kids pick anything they wanted. Then enjoyed a junk food fest down on the Picton waterfront.

The kids had done it. Charlies Speedo registering 1965km. We spent almost 3 hours on the waterfront, enjoying the achievement. Journeys like this are such an experience that getting to the end feels like a let down. It’s the Journey that is the experience not the destination.

For the last 3 months we had biked 45 days, had 45 days off the bike to trek, rest and explore. And averaged about 40km the days we biked. The biggest day was 62km and the shortest was 8km.

We farewelled Picton and drove our car over to Motueka to rest and recover and prepare for 3 months in remote Fiordland.

North Island leg to begin in August!